Every revolution of the cranks contributes a few millimetres of elevation gain as my All-Packa and two-weeks worth of conference packing makes its way up the windy road from Villefranche-sur-Mer to the Grand Corniche on the French Riviera. Wearing flip-flops is a choice I regret now, but on the other hand I can’t imagine trying to squeeze my now hot and swollen feet into socks and shoes. At least it’s not as sweltering as initially forecast, and as the road climbs into the mountains, the temperature drops slightly. To be honest, I’m a bit surprised that the route of EuroVelo 8, which I’m following from Nice to the Italian border, chose the highest of the three corniche along the coast, but the traffic is much calmer here and the views are of course spectacular. My efforts will be rewarded as I know what awaits me after I crest the Col d’Eze: the descent from La Turbie is one of my favorite things to do on a bicycle.
Over my right shoulder Cap Ferrat juts into the Mediterranean like a hitchhiker’s thumb in the wind. Anchored in the small bay is an enormous three-masted sailing ship, a new cruise tourism product from LVMH, and the contrast with my chosen mode of travel couldn’t be more stark. The freedom of the bicycle tourist contrasts starkly with the cramped and stilted luxury of the private villas or exclusive cabin suites languoring below me.
Just hours before, while unfolding my bicycle on the platform in Nice, an American voice boomed out in appreciation
“That is badass! I’ve never seen anything like it!”.
It’s American, I explain, made in Oregon.
“Well it’s very cool, have fun out there!” He recognizes and appreciates the freedom a folding gravel adventure bike like the All-Packa represents. This bike has adventure written all over it.
The bike receives spontaneous praise everywhere I go. “Bella bicicletta!” an elderly Italian exclaims at the beach, and I demonstrate the folding mechanism. I get appreciative and curious glances from other cycling tourists. A lot of nodding appraisal and mumblings of “N+1” from the assembled bike nerds at Velo-city. My idiosyncratic build does not disappoint, and performs as intended, from the ridiculously wide drop bars to the cobbled-together drivetrain. I never find myself searching for a lower gear while grinding up the ‘Eze (42-42 for those who wonder) though the occasional tailwind does leave me spinning on the top end (42-11). In the words of Mahatma Gandhi though, “There is more to life than increasing its speed.” and I satisfy myself with the pace my legs alone propel me.
Having two successive week-long European engagements in June gave me a great opportunity to combine the All-Packa with European rail services in my travels from Stockholm, and make a trip of it, with the opportunity to catch up with friends and do some epic riding.
Starting with a night train from Sweden, a connection to the Netherlands from Hamburg allowed me the opportunity to experience some of the amazing cycling infrastructure that the country is famous for. Nearly every major road has a corresponding parallel bike path, and route-finding is easy with the “knooppunt” numbered intersection system. Smooth and painless rail integration is just the icing on the cake, making the Netherlands the established leader of cycling infrastructure, (although let’s be honest, the topography leaves much to be desired). My first stop was a speaking engagement at a symposium of academics interested in trails, to share some projects that I am engaged in across Europe, before attending a project meeting at a national park. The CONNECT project (https://www.outdoor-sports-network.eu/connect-project/) aims to help outdoor sports organisations and protected areas collaborate on sustainability initiatives and nature conservation, and sustainable travel to our project meetings is encouraged. The All-Packa combined with rail connections is an obvious choice to keep my carbon footprint low.
After visiting friends in Brussels and Lyon (and touring that city’s cycling infrastructure with a municipal planner) on my trip south, I took a morning TGV to Nice where I planned to ride some familiar roads to the Italian border. Previous trips to this part of France included a Ritchey Break-Away, so the travel-bike genre is familiar to me. Unlike my Ritchey, however, the Bike Friday packs quickly, bears luggage, and I can carry its packing bag with me.
A Monday morning ride into Ventimiglia initiates the Italian part of my journey, to visit the Velo-city conference in Rimini. The largest cycling conference in the world, Velo-city attracts 1400 cycling advocates, activists, planners and industry representatives from around the world to share knowledge and inspiration to improve conditions for cycling. A highlight is always the traditional mid-week bike parade, which this year took us past Rimini’s historic landmarks and famous beach promenade. As usual, my All-Packa attracted a fair amount of attention, and several other parade-goers borrowed the bike for a quick test spin.
Leaving Velo-city I had one more stop to make before heading home to Sweden. I’ve been an active supporter of the Warmshowers Foundation for several years, and a member of the board of directors since 2024. As an online organisation, I’d never had the opportunity to meet any of the other people engaged in the organisation in person, and since my journey would take me near Padua I had arranged to pedal in and stay with one of my fellow (well, ex-) board members, for a convivial night with meal, conversation, and a nighttime stroll for gelato, of course.
Traveling by bicycle expands one’s horizons at a pace that allows appreciation and reflection. Meeting new people and trying new things is easier by bicycle, and the freedom to choose one’s own road makes every bicycle journey unique and personal. A folding bicycle permits one to experience that freedom even further afield, when circumstances demand or when adventure calls.
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